Beinn Udlaidh Dissapointment



Looking up Quartzvein Scoop


Pitch 1


The East Face


Geoff cutting steps

Today Geoff and I headed off to Beinn Udlaidh hoping it had survived the thaw. The approach slopes were somewhat unstable with accumulated windslab. We soloed up to the ice proper and after having built the belay and feeling the temperature rise all I was getting from ice axe placements were huge bits dinnerplating and falling off. Slush puppy was coming out of the ice screws rather than a proper core so we decided to down climb and call it a day rather than smash the route to pieces. The descent was bad with the snow having become more unstable and a few slabs broke off below our feet.

We spent the rest of the day with me teaching Geoff how to Ice axe arrest, make snow bollards, ice axe belays and cut steps on ice, so it wasn't a wasted day.

A few teams climbed routes on the West Face and seemed to fair better than us.

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