Gwilym's Adventure Blog

On day 1 of a west coast based Winter Climbing Skills course. We did (rather optimistically) have a look at the north face of Ben Nevis and discuss avalanche awareness and making sensible mountain decisions, before beating a hasty retreat to The Ice Factor for a couple of hours ice coaching (in the relative warm and dry).

Last week , Jamie and I turned round due to wind so it was great to go back in today and climb North Gully at Lurcher's Crag. Given grade III in the guide book it was top end and maybe even a soft IV today. The ice was mainly good with a few cruddy patches around to keep you on your toes.  A couple of steep pitches just enough to get the calves screaming and the sun was just starting to thaw the ice near the top and a few bits fell off as we climbed out. There was another party on the route but it was very amicable. We often chatted at belays and plenty of room to not get in each others way. All in all a very good day out that as always ended with coffee and cake.

..... so this is an 8000 word essay. Mandy and I soloed Aladdins Couloir today (including a spicy ice pitch at around II/III ) before walking over the plateau to look down at Hell's Lum, Carn Etchachan and Stag Rocks Amazing views. The photos can explain the rest

Today Jez , Stuart and I walked into Corrie an T'Sneachda for some winter action. We headed over to The Mess of Potage and climbed The Haston Line (IV 4),  Jacobs Edge (II) and ahalf descent and re-ascent of Jacobs Ladder (1) after deciding it was too busy to down climb. The weather was stunning today with low wind and just cold enough. The butresses are beginning to strip a bit in the warm but there is still plenty to go at. I am really pleased to be back up in Scotland and with the conditions as they are, I am hoping or some more great days out.

Today, as unbelievable as it sounds, I went Ice Climbing in South Wales. Climbable ice, in wales in April!!!! First Richard and I soloed Torpantau (III) and got back to the van by 9am for coffee and croissant (this is so much more civilised that Scottish climbing). We headed round to above Hirwuan and climbed Douglas Gap (III) and Iron Claws (IV). The latter was not in the best of conditions and a fair bit was falling off the top pitch forcing us well out to the left. Then it was back to the van for coffee and a burger. We drove round to look at RAC corner but it looked a bit hacked up and not in the best of condition so we have left it for another time (though not likely to be anytime soon)

Graham and I headed back up onto Ben Nevis today and on an intial look, Green Gully (IV 3) seemed only to have one team on it. However, once we had started and I reached the first belay I became aware that the team ahead were stopped by the two teams ahead of them. Just as I was thinking about abseiling off and going elsewhere two other teams started behind and there we were, sandwiched at the belay. The rest of the route continued like this with upto five people at any belay until we reached the upper pitch and ran for the cornice. The routes high up have survived the last few days of thaw well and there is still plenty of ice about. Todays weather was pleasant but there was a chill in the air which looks good for the next day or two.

  Today we took the option of a much shorter walk in and headed into Corrie an t'Sneachda for a few routes. Although I was really keen to climb Patey's route (IV 5), there were 4 already on it, 2 starting and 3 waiting below so that wasn't going to happen. In the end we climbed Broken Fingers (III 4) a mix of Broken Gully and Fingers Ridge (which I have done before). Our second route was Red Gully (II/III) but I was unable to persuade Graham into doing a 3rd route. Great weather to start and back to the Alpine weather of last week but the cloud rolled in mid afternoon, maybe it is changing back to normal!.

 Mass snowhole site Today Graham and I walked into Creag Meagaidh and climbed The Pumpkin (V 4) which was in excellent condition and yet again as the pictures show, we were spoilt with fantastic weather. Great plans afoot for tomorrow

The below photo is courtesy of Conan Harrod showing me at the top belaying Graham Back into the North Face of Ben Nevis and onto Vanishing Gully (V 5). I have been looking to do this one for some time but it has always either been busy or I have ended up doing something else instead. Well it was worth the wait and as it was Graham's first V5 I led both pitches on brilliant steep ice before abbing back down and walking out. We are leaving Ben Nevis tonight and will be climbing somewhere else tomorrow.